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East Ridge
3rd Easy Snow,
Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), Grade II,
Avg: 2.3 from 6
votes
FA: Hermann Ulrichs & Albert Heath (1938)
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Snowking Mountain
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Access the east ridge by traversing south around Cyclone Lake. Once on the ridge follow it toward the summit, sometimes traversing snow or clean granite slabs, other times meandering along the vegetated ridge crest. Eventually the ridge becomes rocky, composed of varying sizes of talus. Continue along this ridge or ascend via the margin of the glacier toward the 3rd class scramble to the top, which begins in a notch (snow filled in early season) on the southeast side of the summit tower. The glacier can be glissaded most of its length to quicken the descent.
Protection
Ice axe
![Cyclone Lake with the East Ridge clearly visible]()
[Hide Photo] Cyclone Lake with the East Ridge clearly visible
![Descending the Snowking Glacier. Mutchler Peak and Mt. Buckindy in the background]()
[Hide Photo] Descending the Snowking Glacier. Mutchler Peak and Mt. Buckindy in the background
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