Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: NB (rope solo)
Page Views: 170 total · 10/month
Shared By: nbrown on Sep 12, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a technical face climb up the face to the right of "Squeezed to Death" (3rd pitch variation only) that feels quite airy given the position and insecurity of the climbing. It is a fun way to finish up the summit blocks if you're into thin slabs.

It can be approached a number of ways as the ledge below the block allows one to mix and match as they please. The most straightforward approach would be to climb "Porcelain Throne" or "Forgotten Passage" to get to the base.

Start in the chimney, but quickly step right to a short corner (TCU here -- sling long) then right again onto the face and a line of bolts. Do a weird transition onto the arete slab at the 3rd bolt (hint: stay low). Continue up what feels (to me) like desperately thin edging past a couple bolts to easier ground at a horizontal that takes a good # 2 or 3. Climb the last easy slab to the fixed-stopper anchor at the apex of the formation (it is easy to back up for the belay with hand/fist-sized gear).

Location

See the pic.

Protection

5 bolts, a small TCU, and # 2 Camalot.

Photos

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