Type: Trad
FA: April 1979 by: Andy Solow, Dick Richardson, Vince Hernandez and 3 others from Prescott, AZ
Page Views: 372 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sam Elander on Sep 12, 2018
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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This thing starts as a vertical crack climb and quickly becomes a vertical and horizontal chimney climb. Protection is in the crack in the back of the chimney. If you fall, you fall out of it. Extremely strenuous. When I was 5'8" tall & 142#, I rated this thing 5.10d. One of the other six people who were present when I finally led it claimed it was only 5.9. But, he was only 5'4" tall and he couldn't lead it.   The first time I tried it, my legs weren't strong enough. So, I found a parking garage near my home that had smooth, precast, double horizontal concrete beams. I worked out in that garage regularly for nearly 3 months then bagged the route on my next attempt.  -Andy Solow


Located at Chimney Crag/Dr. Bombay Area.


nuts or friends in a small to medium finger to hand size crack