All Locations > New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Ice Cream Parlor > Entrance Pinnacle Sector

Michoacan Bar

Name: Michoacan Bar
Rating: 1.8

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13

Routes in Entrance Pinnacle Sector

L › R R › L A › Z

	Diabeetus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Good Humor Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	I Scream T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Michoacan Bar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Soft-Serve Cone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	We All Scream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	You Scream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	A. Miller, N. Woodward (FFA)
Page Views:	670 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Aaron Miller on Sep 12, 2018
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route gets early shade, possible at 12:30 average warm season. Easy hand crack gets you to a ledge where you can easily place great finger-sized gear. Above, fiddle in some smaller tips gear before you need to commit to the fun and exciting finish.

NOTE: There is good gear the whole way; with that said, place any small tips gear deep; too shallow placements can be in flaring pods and/or could break off some of the crispy edge of rock and fail. I watched someone take a decent fall from the last move of this route onto a purple C3; it held bomber. I also watched a shallow green C3 placement pop from body weight (placed at the crack edge); you can see the scar in the upper part of the crack. After seeing this, we bounce-tested a better placement and it seemed fine, but just be aware.