Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches
FA: Greg Orton, Harold Hall, Leif Embertson, 1997.
Page Views: 1,071 total · 16/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Sep 11, 2018
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

P1 - a bolt protects the first move into the crack. Climb crack placing 1-4 inch gear to a bolted belay near the top of the crack out on the slab to the right (~150 ft, 5.8, no chains at belays).
P2 - Climb left following bolt line up the short headwall to the left of the large roof (5.10a crux first 20 feet, ~150 ft). Headwall can be a little mossy at times.
P3 - follow bolt line up a wide water-crack, topping out into a small saddle (classic 5.9 water-crack, ~150 ft). Top 30 feet will be a little sandy but rock is very coarse texture with great footing.
Once on summit ridge scramble to highest point on the summit where you will find the register and rappel chains (four 90 ft rappels).

Location Suggest change

Easily located, Testosterone Monkey begins in a large right facing inside crack under a large roof in the center of McKinley Rock.

Protection Suggest change

crack takes 1-4 inch gear, bolted slab and water crack

Photos

loading