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Ascent Into the Maelstrom
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
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Ascent Into the Maelstrom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13 |
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Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1+ |
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Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Pamela Shanti Pack |
| Page Views: | 785 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Sep 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Ascent Into The Maelstrom is a new wide crack masterpiece sure to entertain. This striking line is visible for quite some distance, begging to be climbed. If you like wicked squeezes, this one's for you.
P1) 5.9+
Climb/scramble up a slightly awkward offwidth to a very large belay ledge. Gear: 4-5"
P2) 5.11-
Very fun arm-barring with some really neat undulations. Bump #6s and leave green bros for the majority of the pitch.
Gear: 6-9"
P3) 5.11 R/X
Welcome to the Maelstrom. The wind funnels through the crack and multiplies many times over as it passes through the belay stance. It can be a 5mph wind on the summit, and feel like 30mph gusts in the funnel. Chimney up, and out passing two bolts. The chimney flares down and you'll awkwardly squeeze through a runnout opening with the wind creating an "exciting" sense of urgency. A #12 makes this pitch much safer, as placing blue-bros on the crux is not optimal. Once finally into the squeeze, climb another 80' of blue-bros to a funky/fun finish and an anchor on a ledge out right. The plateau is accessible via a short scramble to the right.
Gear: #6, #12, and many #4 Big Bros. Optional #5 Big Bro for the top.
P1) 5.9+
Climb/scramble up a slightly awkward offwidth to a very large belay ledge. Gear: 4-5"
P2) 5.11-
Very fun arm-barring with some really neat undulations. Bump #6s and leave green bros for the majority of the pitch.
Gear: 6-9"
P3) 5.11 R/X
Welcome to the Maelstrom. The wind funnels through the crack and multiplies many times over as it passes through the belay stance. It can be a 5mph wind on the summit, and feel like 30mph gusts in the funnel. Chimney up, and out passing two bolts. The chimney flares down and you'll awkwardly squeeze through a runnout opening with the wind creating an "exciting" sense of urgency. A #12 makes this pitch much safer, as placing blue-bros on the crux is not optimal. Once finally into the squeeze, climb another 80' of blue-bros to a funky/fun finish and an anchor on a ledge out right. The plateau is accessible via a short scramble to the right.
Gear: #6, #12, and many #4 Big Bros. Optional #5 Big Bro for the top.
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