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Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Ascent Into the Maelstrom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0-1
Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pamela Shanti Pack
Page Views: 62 total · 51/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Sep 11, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Ascent Into The Maelstrom is a new wide crack masterpiece sure to entertain. This striking line is visible for quite some distance, begging to be climbed. If you like wicked squeezes, this one's for you.

P1) 5.9+
Climb/scramble up a slightly awkward offwidth to a very large belay ledge. Gear: 4-5"

P2) 5.11-
Very fun arm-barring with some really neat undulations. Bump #6s and leave green bros for the majority of the pitch.
Gear: 6-9"

P3) 5.11 R/X
Welcome to the Maelstrom. The wind funnels through the crack and multiplies many times over as it passes through the belay stance. It can be a 5mph wind on the summit, and feel like 30mph gusts in the funnel. Chimney up, and out passing two bolts. The chimney flares down and you'll awkwardly squeeze through a runnout opening with the wind creating an "exciting" sense of urgency. A #12 makes this pitch much safer, as placing blue-bros on the crux is not optimal. Once finally into the squeeze, climb another 80' of blue-bros to a funky/fun finish and an anchor on a ledge out right. The plateau is accessible via a short scramble to the right.
Gear: #6, #12, and many #4 Big Bros. Optional #5 Big Bro for the top.

Location

This is the massive crack to the left of the paddle wheel that houses "Without A Net"

Protection

4-18"

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