Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 1
FA: Paul Piana, Bob Cowan, Todd Skinner, and Beth Wald, July 19th, 1984
> Devils Tower
> W Face
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE (Effective March 15)
A complete and regularly updated list of closed routes can be found on the park’s website. nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Another challenging 11 at the Tower, and right in the middle of a classic sector. Excellent gear.
P1 (11c, 140') Climb the first 40' of One Way Sunset then go left where One Way goes right (just below two skecthy, jutting pins). Traverse left across the face on good holds to gain the main crack at a slight bulge. Work the funky, off balance angles to a good rest at 2/3 height. Get past a punchy crux then continue to the hanging, bolted belay on the right wall.
P2 (11b, 80) Keep the sustained stemming going to the yellow, subtle roof and find the anchors on the left.
Variation; The Rosen Variation is a direct start to the first pitch, tackling the overhanging, right facing dihedral. This goes at 5.10d and looks a little hard to protect.
This is two cracks right of Carol's Crack and second crack left of One Way Sunset.
Double rack up to fingers, single hands, nuts