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Approaching Lavender

5.11c, Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Piana, Bob Cowan, Todd Skinner, and Beth Wald, July 19th, 1984
Wyoming > Devils Tower > W Face
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Another challenging 11 at the Tower, and right in the middle of a classic sector. Excellent gear.

P1 (11c, 140') Climb the first 40' of One Way Sunset then go left where One Way goes right (just below two skecthy, jutting pins). Traverse left across the face on good holds to gain the main crack at a slight bulge. Work the funky, off balance angles to a good rest at 2/3 height. Get past a punchy crux then continue to the hanging, bolted belay on the right wall.

P2 (11b, 80) Keep the sustained stemming going to the yellow, subtle roof and find the anchors on the left.

Variation; The Rosen Variation is a direct start to the first pitch, tackling the overhanging, right facing dihedral. This goes at 5.10d and looks a little hard to protect.

Location

This is two cracks right of Carol's Crack and second crack left of One Way Sunset.

Protection

Double rack up to fingers, single hands, nuts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Relatively clean as of Sept. 2018. Climbed with minimal gardening. Sep 10, 2018