5.10+ PG13,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Bill Robins, Kirsten Davis, 1985
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Great White Icicle Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
A cerebral climb with runouts, some sketchy gear, some good gear, and a roof.
Climb the face to the right of Small Block passing a single bolt (guidebook says 2). Throw some gear in at the roof and pull the roof. If you've chosen wisely, you mantle into some thin and unprotectable crack. If you've chosen poorly, you get good gear but then have to traverse into the unprotectable crack. A few more tricky moves and then a good crack leads you to the chains.
Location
15' right of Small Block. It starts in the trees (more or less). Bushwhack out and then find the bolt.