Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Dave Nettle, Cadence Reed 2012
Page Views: 187 total · 15/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Sep 7, 2018
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This line is a direct variation of the Rowell/Neale route up the center of the main east face of Four Gables South aka Peak 12,801’. Looks good from a distance, but upon closer inspection it is quite grainy with plenty of loose stuff. Topo does a good job of breaking things down so I'll keep it minimal.

P1-4) We simuled these easy pitches in one go, about 500'. Some of the more fun and clean climbing on the route.
P5) 5.10- 200'. Head right across sandy ledges then back up left following cracks towards the giant chimney/alcove system above. Belay on a big ledge at the base of the corner.
P6) 5.10+ 150'. Decent crack climbing in the corner to a strenuous roof crux. Belay in the chimney at a sloping stance directly above the roof.
P7) 5.10 100'. The "stacked blocks" are quite serious. Know how to safely navigate through loose terrain or risk killing yourself and/or your belayer. Probably deserves an X or XX rating. Push softly, don't pull! Your homie below is directly in the firing line with nowhere to hide.
P8-9) We simuled a short bit, 250' or so, belaying in the cave below the cool tunnel-block. 5.6
P10) Tunnel out and climb to the top. 5.7 100'

Location

Straight up the prominent pillar on left-center of the main East wall.

Descend by hiking south along the ridge for about a mile and dropping into the next drainage south of Upper Horton Lake. A tedious talus slog and boulder hopping leads to a small lake where you can then drop back down to Upper Horton Lake. See map on main page.

Protection

Doubles to 3", 1x 4"

Photos