Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Rwandan military, year unknown
Page Views: 165 total · 12/month
Shared By: Eric Jospe on Sep 6, 2018
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Description

The following description comes from Doug Teschner's "Rwanda Rock" guide (2006). The first pitch has since been bolted and shares the start with Crack on the Mossy Breast.

This climb was reportedly used as a training exercise by the Rwanda military in the pre-genocide period, and old cables and pitons are much in evidence. One of the best in Rwanda! It generally follows the obvious, right-of-center crack (mostly off-width) which runs the full height of the cliff. Good rock (with many climber friendly nubbins), sustained climbing, and exciting run outs make for a great outing. A classic trad route with route finding challenges, lichen, etc. Don’t miss it!

  1. Overcome vegetation to reach the crack proper. Climb the crack and face to its right, past three pitons (getting past the third is the route’s 5.6+ crux) followed by a thought-provoking 5.5 run out (80 foot ground fall potential) up the face to the right of the crack. Finally protection! Belay at a small grassy stance with two pitons for the anchor. 100 feet.
  2. Nice, but easy climbing to the left of the crack, then unpleasant bushwhacking to a nice stance with bolts and a cable. 50 feet.
  3. Up face above, eventually crossing the crack back to the left, then later back right to a semi-hanging belay with three pitons. 90 feet.
  4. Surmount the bulge above, then follow the off width crack up a thin face to a cable around a chockstone and (higher) a cable and bolts hidden inside the wide crack. 60 feet.
  5. Up the crack and face to the right with some exciting unprotected friction moves to a hidden piton on the left. Continue past another pin, then traverse left across orange lichen to a short inside corner leading to a grassy stance below a blocky outcrop. (Note: spectator children may boldly descend to this point from the top.) 110 feet.
  6. Climb the corner and face above to the top. 50 feet.

Location

Follows the obvious off-width crack all the way to the top.

Protection

The hard sections are well protected, the stances are bolted (old but ok) and there is an occasional piton on the route. Large cams (#3-6) for the crack and smaller cams (#0.3 to #0.75) for the top.

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