Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Rwandan military, year unknown|
|Page Views:||165 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Eric Jospe on Sep 6, 2018|
This climb was reportedly used as a training exercise by the Rwanda military in the pre-genocide period, and old cables and pitons are much in evidence. One of the best in Rwanda! It generally follows the obvious, right-of-center crack (mostly off-width) which runs the full height of the cliff. Good rock (with many climber friendly nubbins), sustained climbing, and exciting run outs make for a great outing. A classic trad route with route finding challenges, lichen, etc. Don’t miss it!
- Overcome vegetation to reach the crack proper. Climb the crack and face to its right, past three pitons (getting past the third is the route’s 5.6+ crux) followed by a thought-provoking 5.5 run out (80 foot ground fall potential) up the face to the right of the crack. Finally protection! Belay at a small grassy stance with two pitons for the anchor. 100 feet.
- Nice, but easy climbing to the left of the crack, then unpleasant bushwhacking to a nice stance with bolts and a cable. 50 feet.
- Up face above, eventually crossing the crack back to the left, then later back right to a semi-hanging belay with three pitons. 90 feet.
- Surmount the bulge above, then follow the off width crack up a thin face to a cable around a chockstone and (higher) a cable and bolts hidden inside the wide crack. 60 feet.
- Up the crack and face to the right with some exciting unprotected friction moves to a hidden piton on the left. Continue past another pin, then traverse left across orange lichen to a short inside corner leading to a grassy stance below a blocky outcrop. (Note: spectator children may boldly descend to this point from the top.) 110 feet.
- Climb the corner and face above to the top. 50 feet.