Pillar Left Chimney
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 562 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | kenr on Sep 6, 2018 |
Admins: | SMarsh |
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This area has not been specifically approved for climbing by NJ Parks, and perhaps is completely of partly outside the Park, instead on State-owned land managed by the NJ Dept of Environmental Protection. Also there might be a concern of climbers parking disruptively outside the Route 206 Cranberry Lake commuter parking lot on busy days.
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
Description
Interesting moves, with no squirming (perhaps a little bit optional).
Likely one difficulty grade easier if stop at top of pillar.
Start at base of wide crack / chimney inside wide left-facing corner in the left side of the central pillar. Up to the top of the chimney and stand on top of the pillar.
. . (? project Variation : Up to top of chimney using holds only on the faces to the left or right -- without using any holds inside the chimney).
From top of pillar, step up a bit left onto face above (crux) and finish over left side of overhang.
. . (likely much harder if much less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Likely one difficulty grade easier if stop at top of pillar.
Start at base of wide crack / chimney inside wide left-facing corner in the left side of the central pillar. Up to the top of the chimney and stand on top of the pillar.
. . (? project Variation : Up to top of chimney using holds only on the faces to the left or right -- without using any holds inside the chimney).
From top of pillar, step up a bit left onto face above (crux) and finish over left side of overhang.
. . (likely much harder if much less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Location
Wide crack / chimney inside wide left-facing corner in the left side of the central pillar.
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see the description page for this sector.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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