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Rusty's Rusty Buh-Hole

5.12d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 24 votes
FA: Will Lohman, Aug 2018
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Whiny Baby Wall
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

Very similar to the routes left and right, but slightly harder and more continuous. Consists of many big moves and lots of tension climbing on good small holds.

Pull onto the wall with shallow monos and jump for a good edge. Punch it straight up through 5 bolts of techy moves on small sharp holds, big moves on good edges, and a throw off a ninja turtle pocket (spock?) to a shark tooth jug. Mini jugs take you left then back right to a small ledge. A move to a mondo jug might give you some trouble, but the thinner section above is easier than the other routes. May be height dependent with some reachy moves. Definitely a good climb.

Location

Between Team Whiny Baby and Tangerine Fat Explosion. Blank looking start.

Protection

10 bolts, chain anchor (12 draws), stick clip at least the first bolt

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last big move of the bottom crux.
[Hide Photo] Last big move of the bottom crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
[Hide Comment] Climbs for tall people generally suck. Sep 21, 2020
Emily Shertzer
Laramie, WY
[Hide Comment] Well, @BK, 70% of women in the United States are shorter than 5'6", so height on this climb probably IS an issue for a significant proportion of the population. Nov 19, 2020
Pandy Fackler
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is an absolutely fantastic route. For what it’s worth, I’m 5’6” (5’7” on a good day) with a -3 ape index and found nothing reachy or height dependent on the route...except for getting off the ground. I built up the cheater stones a bit more, but still had to lock off on the left hand crimp and completely jump for the jug at the first bolt.

Still a slight bit of sand and dust for the first 5 bolts, give it a brushing on your way down. Jul 15, 2021
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Such a good route with some awesome hot soup in the 1st 3rd. This wall holds some of the best upper 12s I've ever been on. All fun and unique in their own ways with really cool cruxes. Aug 31, 2021
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated w/ ClimbTech Mussys 7/4/22 courtesy of The Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI / BCC). Donate & or become a member of the Bighorn Climbers Coalition (BCC) today! Jul 4, 2022