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Rusty's Rusty Buh-Hole
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 27
votes
Routes in Whiny Baby Wall
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Cloud Peak Vista Traverse Company, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Death Metal Navajo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Purple and Yellow Blast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rusty's Rusty Buh-Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Santa's Little Prowler S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tangerine Fat Explosion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Team Girl Squad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Team Whiny Baby S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 44.14977, -107.2572 |
| FA: | Will Lohman, Aug 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,956 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Will Lohman on Sep 5, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Very similar to the routes left and right, but slightly harder and more continuous. Consists of many big moves and lots of tension climbing on good small holds.
Pull onto the wall with shallow monos and jump for a good edge. Punch it straight up through 5 bolts of techy moves on small sharp holds, big moves on good edges, and a throw off a ninja turtle pocket (spock?) to a shark tooth jug. Mini jugs take you left then back right to a small ledge. A move to a mondo jug might give you some trouble, but the thinner section above is easier than the other routes. May be height dependent with some reachy moves. Definitely a good climb.
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