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Turtle Rock Summit Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon
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Analog V8-9 7B+ |
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Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chitty Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Digital (aka Sector 54?) V6 7A |
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Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make A Dead Man Cum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Moonrise Variation (Moontide?) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moontide T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turtle Rock Summit Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 896 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Sep 4, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Do you want to stand on top of Vedauwoo? The top of the crag known to climbers as Land of the Rising Moon is actually the highest point in the Voo! It is the only "ranked" summit in the area, meaning it is the only peak that has over 300 feet of prominence. It is officially named Turtle Rock on the USGS map.
In the past, this route has likely been of most interest to non-climber peakbaggers who have been known to aid their way up it, but it is a fun little climbing adventure too if you're in the area and have the skills. For the best value, climb Straight and Narrow to Drainpipe Left Exit, and finish with this.
The oversized summit boulder poses quite the challenge for the non-technical peakbagger. Luckily the boulder is spilt on one side by an overhanging, tight hands crack. Climb the short but enjoyable crack, and then scamper up low angle slab to the summit.
There is NO FIXED ANCHOR at the top. To descend, most down-aid the route, which is actually quite quick and easy. Don't let the lack of top anchor deter you as the descent when done this way is really no big deal and goes quickly. It should also be possible to run the rope over the whole boulder and anchor it on one side in order to rappel off the other, or to simul-rap.
In the past, this route has likely been of most interest to non-climber peakbaggers who have been known to aid their way up it, but it is a fun little climbing adventure too if you're in the area and have the skills. For the best value, climb Straight and Narrow to Drainpipe Left Exit, and finish with this.
The oversized summit boulder poses quite the challenge for the non-technical peakbagger. Luckily the boulder is spilt on one side by an overhanging, tight hands crack. Climb the short but enjoyable crack, and then scamper up low angle slab to the summit.
There is NO FIXED ANCHOR at the top. To descend, most down-aid the route, which is actually quite quick and easy. Don't let the lack of top anchor deter you as the descent when done this way is really no big deal and goes quickly. It should also be possible to run the rope over the whole boulder and anchor it on one side in order to rappel off the other, or to simul-rap.
Location
This route is at the tip top of the crag. Climb Drain Pipe or easily scramble up the east side of the formation. Once on top, look for the highest boulder with a significant crack on its northwest side.
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