This area is designated as Charon
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access is always an issue here.
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Starts to the right of Rowins-Andrews, Start up easy climbing to a bush, a stance, and then into direct aid on the small corner that the Rowins-Andrews route drilled past before rejoining it for a few moves. Small tenuous gear leads to a small shaky cam (I thought it was good until it shifted out on me as I moved to the next piece so watch that...) and finally a bomber cam at the top of the arch. You have the potential to deck from ~35 feet up so be careful. After getting good gear continue going right along the shallow horizontal crack to the Yellow Beard anchors.
A note on the name: I had a name picked out for the route prior to starting it but in the middle of the climbing an unforcasted rain storm hit just as I was below the runoff for the slabs above... because of this I couldn't look up to see my next placement and had to just hang there and wait about 20 minutes until it let up to move. The pictures I posted are from a subsequent, fortunately dry, ascent.
Between Rowins-Andrews and Iron Love
Bring a beak or two, a set of KB's, 1-3 LA's, a 1/2" and 5/8" sawn angle, talon hook, a pointed cliffhanger and doubles of cams from the smallest to .5 camalot. Also bring a #1 head and a butterknife in case the fixed head blows.