Type: Aid, 70 ft
FA: Sam Dempsey (solo), August 2018
Page Views: 371 total · 27/month
Shared By: Sam Dempsey on Sep 4, 2018
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Starts to the right of Rowins-Andrews, Start up easy climbing to a bush, a stance, and then into direct aid on the small corner that the Rowins-Andrews route drilled past before rejoining it for a few moves. Small tenuous gear leads to a small shaky cam (I thought it was good until it shifted out on me as I moved to the next piece so watch that...) and finally a bomber cam at the top of the arch. You have the potential to deck from ~35 feet up so be careful. After getting good gear continue going right along the shallow horizontal crack to the Yellow Beard anchors.

A note on the name: I had a name picked out for the route prior to starting it but in the middle of the climbing an unforcasted rain storm hit just as I was below the runoff for the slabs above... because of this I couldn't look up to see my next placement and had to just hang there and wait about 20 minutes until it let up to move. The pictures I posted are from a subsequent, fortunately dry, ascent.

Location

Between Rowins-Andrews and Iron Love

Protection

Bring a beak or two, a set of KB's, 1-3 LA's, a 1/2" and 5/8" sawn angle, talon hook, a pointed cliffhanger and doubles of cams from the smallest to .5 camalot. Also bring a #1 head and a butterknife in case the fixed head blows.

Photos

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