Face Left -> Flake Right
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 579 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | kenr on Sep 3, 2018 |
Admins: | SMarsh |
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This area has not been specifically approved for climbing by NJ Parks, and perhaps is completely of partly outside the Park, instead on State-owned land managed by the NJ Dept of Environmental Protection. Also there might be a concern of climbers parking disruptively outside the Route 206 Cranberry Lake commuter parking lot on busy days.
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
We heard a report that an official survey was performed for a point near this cliff sector, and at least this cliff is very close to the boundary -- like perhaps the top might be inside the Park and the bottom (or middle) might be outside. We do not yet know of any general rule of the DEP forbidding climbing, and as of 2018 this area is not posted for any special status or restrictions. There is no general NJ Parks rule forbidding climbing (after submitting a signed waiver of liability form for the current year).
Description
Thoughtful sequence in low part, then strenuous in high part.
Start on face just left of wide crack chimney in big right-facing inside corner on Left side of central pillar.
Use a step just above the bottom of the chimney crack to get off the ground.
. . ? (project 1: get started on the face without putting a foot on the corner) ?
Up the face aiming for roof above -- without using the corner crack/chimney or pillar face to right of it.
Just below roof, cross horizontal Right over top of corner crack into notch behind the pillar -- without touching backside of pillar or narrow "floor" below behind top of pillar.
Above back of pillar see right-facing flake system up through left center of small roof (great hands but no feet). Next (without standing on top of the pillar or on the smaller block between the right side of pillar and the main wall) up the flake and over the roof to the top.
. . . (right side of roof is easier (with footholds) but then an awkward exit).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Start on face just left of wide crack chimney in big right-facing inside corner on Left side of central pillar.
Use a step just above the bottom of the chimney crack to get off the ground.
. . ? (project 1: get started on the face without putting a foot on the corner) ?
Up the face aiming for roof above -- without using the corner crack/chimney or pillar face to right of it.
Just below roof, cross horizontal Right over top of corner crack into notch behind the pillar -- without touching backside of pillar or narrow "floor" below behind top of pillar.
Above back of pillar see right-facing flake system up through left center of small roof (great hands but no feet). Next (without standing on top of the pillar or on the smaller block between the right side of pillar and the main wall) up the flake and over the roof to the top.
. . . (right side of roof is easier (with footholds) but then an awkward exit).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
FA style + Naming of routes: For more on this - - > See the Main page for Cranberry Hollow.
Location
Just left of wide crack chimney in big right-facing inside corner on Left side of central pillar.
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see the description page for this sector.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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