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Robert’s Arete
5.11,
Sport, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
FA: Greg Hand and Paul Heyliger, 2016
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Carbage
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
This route is interesting, not the best at the rock but worth doing. I listed the rating in the guidebook, but I think it is more difficult, maybe 11b/c. The crux at the big overhang is only a few moves but is not easy. It is not exactly a mantel as described in the guidebook. The feet are poor, and small hands are found above the overhang. Up higher, the climbing is easier, and the rock is not great but not that bad. I cleaned off some loose rock, and if more climbers do this in the future, it will get better. You cruise an easy slab at the top.
Location
This route is on the right side of the south face and climbs on the arete up higher. There are three obvious overhangs on the climb, and the climb starts at an overhang.
Protection
9 bolts (the guidebook says 7) and a 2 bolt anchor.
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