Type: Trad, Alpine, 950 ft, 10 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ignacio Dibona and De Stefani
Page Views: 330 total · 21/month
Shared By: RKM on Aug 29, 2018
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts off slow and gains momentum.  Six or seventh pitch (depends on how you run them together) is a long upward traversing pitch on excellent gray rock to a cool little stance that your rope can hang the entire length without touching anything.  The crux(es) are the last two pitches. First one climbs a chimney/crack between the main wall and a rotten tower.  Apparently, part of the tower fell off in the spring of 2018.  I wouldn’t push back on it too hard.  Fourtunally, two good ring bolts are on the main wall.  The last pitch is a typical V+/A0.  I would guess most grap the slings in place, but one can move a bit left and free climb it at 5.9.  The summit is a grassy plateau.

Location

This route is on the east side of the Torre Grande di Falzarago.  Approach as if going to the Comici route on Torre Piccolo but continue up the hill.  Route starts in a square corner with a ring bolt.  The route goes back and forth a bit and the lower pitches have some grass and ledges. The upper half is steep.  Descent off the back side and down the west slope.  Could rap, anchors in place, but reasonable downclimb.

Protection

Plenty of fixed ring bolts and some pitons and threads. Supplement with a few nuts and friends.

Photos

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