Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jon Walsh, Colin Moorhead, Chris Brazeau - 2016
Page Views: 286 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Aug 28, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn, Mark Roberts

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Sick and Twisted is a fun little route on Eastpost Spire. Perfect for exhibitionist climbers who are afraid of commitment! It's a fairly new route with some crumbly rock (this probably adds to the perceived difficulty; it will likely clean up a bit with more traffic) but it is a great outing for a half-day or inclement weather.

15 minute walk from Applebee, (early) morning shade, easy rappels or walkoff.

P1 (5.12a): Originally rated 5.11d, I believe this is the crux. Climb a decomposing crack to the roof, monkey right, and execute some punchy moves over the roof and up to a bolted, semi-hanging belay. Four bolts protect this pitch.

P2 (5.11c): Originally rated 5.12a, I believe this one is a bit easier though it may be rather difficult seeing/placing gear in the cramped roof system. Undercling and crimp leftwards out the massive roof to a good stance. Climb easier ground up and back right to a bolted belay on a ledge.

P3 (5.10c): Climb a steep, left-facing flake/crack above the belay, move left on a ledge to a crack, climb up this, then move back right on the next ledge. Some steep, exciting climbing up a blocky crack/protruding buttress leads to another bolted belay at the right edge of an impressive hanging slab.

P4 (5.10): Rated 5.10d, but it only gets that grade for the crumbling holds. Traverse left and slightly down along the lip of the hanging slab passing a gear placement and three bolts. Once at the exposed arete, head up (another bolt) until a weakness allows traversing left across an exposed wall to a bolted belay on a big ledge.

P5 (5.10c): Climb the center of three parallel cracks (the left one, at the arete, is the Flaming Hack Arete, 5.11+) to a bolted anchor below the ridge crest.

To descend: Walk off, or rappel with one 70m rope. First rap P5 to the anchors atop P4. Bring a pair of quicklinks & rings to improve this anchor. From here, rappel down and climber's left to the massive slab left of the main formation you climbed. Watch your ends here as you traverse climber's left across this slab to a difficult-to-spot bolted anchor at the edge of the slab above the lower wall. From this anchor, rap straight down to another bolted anchor above one of several bolted routes on this nice-looking lower wall, and then once more to the ground. Four raps in total puts you 50 meters from the base of the route.

Protection

1x Blue Alien to #2 Camalot, 2x 0.4 Camalot to #1 Camalot. Stoppers. 70m rope.

Photos

0 Comments