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Paradise Lost

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Shields/Gangemi, Aug 2018
Montana > Northwest Region > Cabinet Mtn Wil… > St Paul Peak

Description

There’s a distinct left and right side of the face split down the center. This climb is on the left side of the face perhaps 100 meters left of the chimney bisecting the face.

P1: Start in a right facing corner with a small (5’) roof on its right side about 50-60 feet from the ground. The crack looks wide at this roof, but a crack in the left wall protects the move past the roof. A shallow 1.5” cam placement and a stopper fit well for me. Good jamming and great pro continues directly up the crack for a full 60M pitch. (5.9)

P2: Face climb diagonally up and right from the belay about 30’ to a left facing corner split by finger cracks. This is a nice pitch, too. Belay on ledges above. (5.8)

P3: Climb slabs above for 30-60 feet depending on where you belayed to a very large ledge crossing the face. We traversed left to a small buttress at the end of the ledge and belayed. This may require some simul-climbing depending how you pitch it. (5.2)

P4: Continue up the buttress either directly or up easier ground 20-30 feet left of the buttress proper. This was pretty easy ground so we simul-ed a bit and probably did about 250 feet. (5.6)

P5: We climbed a left facing corner with a tricky move stepping past a roof. A small stopper or RP was nice here. This corner is left of where the previously mentioned buttress steepens considerably just below a large treed ledge. Right of this buttress the rock overhangs at this point for reference. After the corner traverse the grassy ledge up and right to belay where the rock steepens again. This is a prow that drops steeply to the right to the line bisecting the face top to bottom. (5.8)

P6-8: Continue up the prow for three more pitches. The rock is highly featured and multiple options exist. We found good stone and enough gear to keep us smiling. (5.7)

Protection

Stoppers, single set of cams to 4” with doubles in 0.5-2 camalot size.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down P7
[Hide Photo] Looking down P7
Finishing up P8 and summitting.
[Hide Photo] Finishing up P8 and summitting.
Sweeping view across the face
[Hide Photo] Sweeping view across the face
P4 after the P3 traverse pitch. This is the buttress described and we trended up just left of the buttress. The trees in the top right of the shot hanging over the overhang are 50-100 feet right of P5 for reference.
[Hide Photo] P4 after the P3 traverse pitch. This is the buttress described and we trended up just left of the buttress. The trees in the top right of the shot hanging over the overhang are 50-100 feet right of…
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Route starts up corner on right side of the snowfield.
[Hide Photo] Route starts up corner on right side of the snowfield.
Route generally goes up the center of this picture
[Hide Photo] Route generally goes up the center of this picture