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Tight Lipped 2

5.11c, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Sarah Gross, Troy Davison
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Chica Bonita Wall

Description

Angle up left to the first bolt then through decent climbing and a crux at 3rd bolt. Vertical.

Location

Instead of taking the main Chica Bonita trail at the top of the road keep walking a few more feet to another road to the right that ends after 150 feet. Take the trail to the left along the overgrown cliffline about 300 feet until you see the big oil pipe. Begin 20 feet left and downhill of the pipe.

Protection

6 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roughly the bolt line
[Hide Photo] Roughly the bolt line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Jaggers
Red River Gorge
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] This route is amazing. If you like hard crimping and difficult onsights, this near vert line should be on your list. So good! Nov 18, 2020
Dave Dorbad
[Hide Comment] I think it is a pretty cool route but the last two bolts seem to have been moved too far right during a rebolt. I couldn’t clip the last bolt from the holds at all and I’m 6’. Oct 14, 2023
DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Dave, I would be shocked if this one has seen a rebolt, it was only bolted in 2014, and has received very little traffic and never had a bad bolt report. It's much more likely the original developer moved one of the bolts during the FA. Oct 15, 2023