Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Coy Dog

5.10c, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: Tim Beaman and Patrick Purcell, 1988
New York > Adirondacks > Keene Region > Barkeater Cliff

Description

Hidden in plain sight, this excellent crack is underrated and underclimbed. It features clean, well protected rock and beautiful positioning on the center of a buttress overlooking the cliff and valley below. A must do for those seeking out quality crack climbing.

A bouldery move a few feet off the deck leads to the left-facing corner with a steep finger crack. Step right on a sloped shelf to a hand crack. Follow this crack to the top. 

Location

The crack splitting the buttress to the left of the corner of Fun City. Scramble up the ledge to the right of the start of Fun City and belay under the left-facing corner

Protection

Emphasis on finger-sized pieces may be appreciated

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nol H
Vermont
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This was once rated 5.9! It's still not a gimme at 10c either Jul 16, 2019
Nicholas Orton
Saranac lake
 
[Hide Comment] Very Nice! This beaut starts off with some, Better than coffee, headgame down low Stabbing for some not so sound jugs with little pro. Just enough Drama down low to make it interesting higher up, with little rests and a healthy pump.. Those finger locks though ... MMM... MMM! Tasty treat this one, I will climb it again. Wish it had a fixed anchor Oct 14, 2019
Ross Manny
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This route now has fixed anchors and a bolt to protect the leader from possible ground fall above the crux (with permission from the first ascent party and general consensus of the local climbing community). It's still spicy, but much more approachable for the solid 5.10 leader.

On a personal note, it is my opinion that this is the best route at the cliff. I haven't done every single one, but all the highly rated ones. It's technical, sustained, varied, and just plain beautiful. You might even swear you've been sandbagged if you do the crux the way I did (and then learned of other beta after). It's a must do. May 15, 2021
John Gehrig
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] The bolt is appreciated! I took an unexpected whip onto it when a foothold broke out from underneath me after the low crux.

It doesn't seem like this route sees much traffic; it was a bit dirty. A long stick clip would make this very approachable (although there is decent gear to protect the moves until the bolt is clipped). I'd recommend plenty of small cams or nuts in addition to the finger sized pieces.

I'll definitely climb it again next time I visit the cliff. Sep 3, 2025