[Hide Comment] Good line. If you love finger jams, you'll be stoked :) The Squamish Select guidebook's description did not help at all (6 pitches). This route should be done in 4 or 5 pitches imo. First pitch ends at a bolted anchor with rap rings slightly right of the main crack system, before the ramp to the 5.9 roof. There is no anchor below the roof. There is also no bolted anchor after the roof but 2 very old (and old fashioned) rusty bolts that I would not trust. It does not make sense to build a gear anchor after the roof so just make sure to have long slings and link into the 5.10 finger traverse to a nice bolted anchor (keep a bd .3 for the final traverse). Third pitch starts on a 5.7 ramp with good hand jams to a ledge. Use a tree to belay or just continue and manage the rope drag to the final ledge (this is what we did and it was not too bad at all). Last pitch is 4 stars. + 35 meters of finger jams. More than you want! Gear wise I would suggest a double rack to bd #2 and triples in bd 0.3, 0.4 and 0.5. We had 1 bd #3. No need for a #4. There are good nut placements but I did not bother. Small cams are perfect and easy to place and remove. May 25, 2022

[Hide Comment] Edit : been thinking about this climb. A 70 m rope may not even get you to the first set of anchors above the roof. I was running out fast. There is an anchor midway up the 10c on the right but it was so off route. I created a gear anchor before the roof.

Do not use squamish select for route finding here. Due to extreme confusion I've put together a topo in the photos section, use that as your bible and don't even crack open the book. You will regret it and become extremely confused.

P1 (10b) : Maybe 2 cams would of held a fall, the whole climb ate offsets, I would not lead that again without a rack of offsets. Give this pitch to your buddy and don't tell him. As you approach the roof, note that there are NO ANCHORS BELOW THE ROOF. The first set of anchors are ABOVE the roof. Save some greens to get over the roof. Once you pull over there is a tad bit of climbing until you see the bolts to your left. Sparse your gear out, this will be a full 70m climb. The anchors here will be shiny silver anchors. If you look right and you see anchors that are rusty and thin as paper, you are SOL.
P2: (10c): Straight forward, the crux is near the top that ends in a fat jug. Bolt anchor
P3: (5.8 garden): Have your nut tool out as you dig your way up the corner. Straight forward. Tree belay below a huge roof boulder
P4: (10b): Follow the left line under the large roof boulder, continue following it. You will see some dirt and trees, move right towards the middle of the rock where holds look plentiful and you can see a bolt around at your 2pm. Go that way and up to a tree belay right below the huge ledge to eat snacks on.
P5: (11a/b). 2 cracks, use the left one. Right one is overgrown and not even a climb. Hard to mess up. For the leader, it's hard to deck at the initial boulder problem because the gear is oh so good. The follower may deck due to rope stretch. The pitch is a solid 55m long. Its around 35-40m of finger crack, then at the top is a omg what is this 5.5 slab with some more overgrown crack. This was probably my favourite 11 crack. The movements are so unique and it's not just the same stuff over and over and some finger cracks are. Cams at the bottom half of the climb did not instill much confidence. Again, wish I had some offsets. I launched my whole rack of nuts to fix this issue

Descent: kinda spicy, would maybe mabye not opt to rappel next time

Rack beta: follow Benoit's rack beta, was fine. I doubled up on some thin finger nuts and was happy I did. Launched lots of them

Heavily tape up your fingers if you can. Bled like a pig on this climb Sep 20, 2022

[Hide Comment] All bolted anchors except for one tree. Pitch one the anchor is off to the right of the crack. Its hard to see until your almost parallel with it, easy to miss. Mar 31, 2023

[Hide Comment] It doesn't make any sense to try and combine p1 with p2--ignore "Unknown Unknown" on that point. Oh and the gear is good on p1, it just takes a bit of finesse to place. Pitch 2 and 3 (from the first good belay station right of the leaning crack to the one after the 10c finger traverse, below the easy white corner) are easily combined though long, and so are p4 and p5. The route layout as described here and in the guidebook are both very misleading. Sep 16, 2023