PRINT: Rock Climb Wizard's Key, Estes Park Valley

Wizard's Key

5.11, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 11 votes
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate

Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.

Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.

Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.

Description

This is AKA 'The Key'! Cruise up a sweeping panel of stone to some back-to-back big moves (crux) around the third bolt. A no hands rest above leads to another tricky section turning left around the arete at the last bolt. It is a tad bit thrilling perhaps but nothing too crazy.

Location

Just as you meet the cliff on your approach to Wizard's Gate, you will see a protruding panel of clean rock with a shiny new anchor up top. This is 'The Key'.

Protection

7 bolts to a fixed anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bob Siegrist in search of the Key....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.11

The chalk on the route suggested going up and right in the gold stone, and that's what we did. Probably more secure than the left-hand moves but not a gimmie. Good climb either way. Jul 20, 2022

Dan Raymond
Longmont, CO

I saw the chalk to the right, but a member of my party insisted that I needed to go left after the last bolt according to the route description. Both ways seemed pretty far off the bolt line, but straight up did not look like a viable option. I went left. Looking down from the anchor, the right side looked easier, but I don't think it changes the overall grade. Either way, it's probably best not to fall after the last bolt. Sep 5, 2022