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Routes in Mendenhall Towers

5th Element - Fifth Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Balancing Act - West Tower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fogels-Visscher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Great White Conqueror T AI4 M5+ A1
Iron Curtian T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sixth Sense - Sixth Tower, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solva Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Buttress - Main Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1250 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jason Nelson, Dylan Miller
Page Views: 100 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jason Nelson 1 on Aug 16, 2018
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

The southeast face of Fifth tower forms a large featured pyramid shaped face. This is the first route we are aware of on this face and there is certainly potential for more. Helicopters routinely fly through the notch to your right, so you won't have a ton of solitude here, but if you can manage to loosen your harness fast enough you'll have ample opportunity to moon tourists flying by, which would likely be quite satisfying.

1. Follow weakness up and left for 200'.  Mostly easy with occasional balancy 5.9 moves.
2.  Follow blocks and ledges, then move left where the wall gets steep. 5.7, 200'.
3. Fun blocks and cracks to the left of a beautiful looking splitter crack (it was filled with dirt otherwise we would have climbed that).  5.10-, 200'.
4. Move right off the belay past some giant blocks. Steep cracks and blocks lead to a splitter finger crack on a less than vertical face.  A crux tops out the crack as it peters out.  More splitter cracks lead to a ledge.  5.10d, 200'.
5. Move left and climb some fun blocks and cracks just right of a water stained feature.  Then angle back right and belay. 5.8, 200'.  
6.  Move left initially over diagonal overlaps then back right up a large ramp feature and through a nice section of splitter railroad track cracks.  Move up flakes above the ramp onto the steep face and belay on a ledge below a short chimney.  5.9, 200'.
7. Climb the chimney then chickenheads lead an unlikely path up a slab and finally to easier ground where you can unrope and walk to the summit. 5.8, 200'.  

Descent: We descended the Solva Buttress via rappels and downclimbing.

Location

If you are counting towers, things seem to get confusing.  From left to right you have the West Tower, the Midget (not really visible form the south),  the Main Tower, the Fourth Tower, The Fifth Tower, the Sixth Tower, then the Seventh Tower.There are only 2-3 obvious cracks that lead off the glacier on the SE face.  The start is on a left leaning crack system on the left side of the SE face proper (i.e. just left of the summit).  

Protection

A double set of cams to #3 Camalot, #4 Camalot would probably also get used. Stoppers and extendable slings.

Photos

Dylan Stuart
Juneau, AK
Dylan Stuart   Juneau, AK
Right on boys! Looks awesome! Aug 16, 2018

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