Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 698 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tyler Newcomb on Aug 16, 2018
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Quartz Crack Roof is a seldom aided, but incredible clean aid climb, likely the best in Vermont. With intimidating exposure and mostly good gear, this route is a fun one for any aid climber.

With 300 feet of air beneath you, this route is intimidating and exposed. It's nearly as difficult and scary for the follower as it is the leader, so beware of that bringing up people that are new to aid.

Follow the beginning of Pitch 4 of Quartz Crack up to the corner and begin traversing right beneath the roof. It may be beneficial to belay from somewhere in here due to the immense amount of rope drag generated on the roof, especially after pulling the roof, but I'm not sure if you'd be able to find enough pieces.

Right after where the crack flares to the left there's a set of 3 old pins, directly above that and out about 2.5 feet is the first piece in the seam of the roof that you'll aid. Follow that out, free and aid over the lip, and build a gear anchor on the roof.

Head directly through the bushes at the top of the climb, bushwacking about 15 feet to a climbers trail. You could also traverse around to the left, but that is a bit more difficult and has much higher consequences in the case of slipping (a 300 fall off a face). Follow the ski trail climbers left and down as you do the standard Quartz Crack Descent.

Make sure both the leader and follower have etriers or aiders, daisies, and a fifi. It might also be helpful for the follower to have some means of ascending if they fall. 


The start is just above where the crack system you traverse is flared to the right, marked by three old pins. It's also the main middle seam in the roof. Looking out further you can see a pin, buttonhead, and bolt.


Standard rack to half an inch, with larger supplemental pieces for the free section to the roof. Nuts may be helpful. One piton is clipped, as is a buttonhead and a bolt. Aiders, daisies, and a fifi are a must for both leader and follower.


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