Type: Trad, Alpine, 409 ft (124 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Merriam, Jervis, Marshall, Howe, Keith, Opp, Hennessy
Page Views: 547 total · 17/month
Shared By: Gee Dubble on Aug 15, 2018
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description

East Face, also called the Direct East Face is the second "normal" route on the pillar. It is longer than the normal West Ridge. But; it has an easier approach and only a little difficult rock on the 1st 90m. The normal descent route will have to be negotiated without preview. Or there is an increasingly, anchored descent route on this side of the Pillar

The 1st pitch, red colored, squeeze chimney, overhang, is an old school, hard-way, to start. 5.8. It used to have a ton of old fixed pitons. Less now.
The start 12 meters right of “Old School” is pretty easy, 5.5 face and recommended.

The “double” or “Yosemite” Crack 5.7 in the description and topo is not long and has face footholds.
After the double crack pitch move left across the face on ledges, with tundra, all the way to the left edge and more easily climb to the top. 5.5

Descend the west face on average strenght tat in 4 - 31m raps, then carefully descend the Tepee Glacier or more easily the black dike, west, to the Lower saddle. Or as mentioned above, continue to equip the ascent route for descent.

The clean dark gray streaks on the overhanging SSW Face is the:
Opp-Hennessey, III 5.12-**** one of the top hard alpine rock routes in the Tetons. 

Left of the Opp-Hennessy is the vertical crack with a A shaped Red colored chimney of the:
Howe-Keith III 5.11**

Location

Tepee Pillar, right side of SE Face, an apron with a amphitheater, on the right margin a red colored squeeze chimney and right of that a lower angled easy buttress, before the much steeper North Face. Either the squeeze or the easier buttress, right is the start.

Protection

1 set+, long runners, at least a 60m rope.  

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