PRINT: Rock Climb Valentine's Day, Paradise Forks

Valentine's Day

5.11, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall

Description

Same start as Kingkinkus. When you get past the broken start and reach the slabby section approx 35' up, you'll see a sharp flake on your right with an obvious jug above it. Protect high in the slabby section (#0 metolius) and climb towards the jug. It's possible to go right and up, or up and right ;). Once you reach the jug there's a nice slot for a #3 metolius (a.red alien works nicely here). Continue up steep climbing, following the seam to finger crack, with helpful little jugs everywhere you need them.

This climb is stellar, some of the steepest rock at The Forks.

Location

A little ways right of the Queenfolia start. Same start a Kingkinkus.

Protection

1 or 2 blue ballnuts, 1 red ballnut

wires

00 metolius (optional)

doubles 0 through 3 metolius

slings and draws.

I protect the start with a blue & red ballnut. It's possible to place hand size cams in the flare, but I don't trust them. The second blue ballnut can go up in the bulge. Not necessary, but nice if you have it. There's a key placement for a 3 (orange) metolius. A red alien works, but I couldn't get a .5 WC friend to fit.