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Psilocybe Cyanescens

5.11b/c, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Logan Fusso, Chandler Davis
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Town Wall > (d) Dana's Arch Area

Description

A long time locals favorite mushroom now has a UTW line dedicated to its magic! While the mushroom is potent the climb is fortunately mostly moderate. The crux is short and quality! Just another wonderful UTW line with good and safe protection.
P1- Most bang for buck climbs Another mans car to the Brett and Scott Memorial anchor .11-. Another option is to climb Lamplighter .10  to the same anchor at base of BNS "Frog Corner". One can link p1 and p2 easily from Another Mans car p1. You can also link p1 of Lamplighter to p2 with good rope work and extension of draws.( .11- or .10)
P2- If you stopped at the BNS anchor this pitch will be short. Step slightly down from the anchor and undercling traverse hard left on a flake under BNS "Frog Corner" you will pass a bolt with couple face moves. once on the arete climb straight up till at the height of the anchor and step left to anchor. .9
P3- Crux pitch. Undercling out left on featured stone and make a move to a horizontal dike. Pull a quintessential Index move and continue straight up to ledge ( BNS p2 anchor is on this ledge but on right) from ledge traverse hard left on slopers and crimps to the anchor out on the face ( dont go to BNS anchor) .11-
P4- A fine mostly bolted pitch. Continue straight up on good face holds to a large flake where you can place a #3 or #4 camalot (optional #5) pass many bolts and a finger or two size cam to a large ledge (Sabbath Ledge) .10
P5- Jugs and rails lead to the sky. .9
P6- A fine hand crack goes up to a face move or two to more splitter cracks to the top of the wall. .9

The last two pitches make for a fine alternative to the last two pitches of BNS route. Its also best to link the last two pitches. The anchor atop p5 is mostly in place for Rappel. The rap route goes straight down to the anchor at base of p3. From there continue rappelling straight down to an anchor on a steep wall. The rappel route is plum line down the wall and does not go near p1 and p2.

Enjoy!

Location

Start on Another mans car if you want full experience. Or on Lamplighter 

Protection

Another mans ca gear to 6". Lamplighter doubles to .75 1 #1 1 #2, extendable draws, QDS

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Yellow is Cyan
[Hide Photo] Yellow is Cyan
A not great photo of a pretty great route. Granite goodness!
[Hide Photo] A not great photo of a pretty great route. Granite goodness!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] Looks great, thanks Michal and crew.
The topo seems to show just 4 belays. Is the lowest "X" the top of pitch 3? Aug 13, 2018
Michal
Index WA
 
[Hide Comment] Updated the topo Jon Aug 13, 2018
Stig gles
Index
5.15d
[Hide Comment] Another classic! Aug 14, 2018
Logan Fuzzo
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Variations: you can skip the crux by climbing up to the top of the frog corner, then cut left passing two bolts... or climb the first two bolts of p3 of brett and scott, cut left clipping two bolts when you reach the 3rd bolt of B and S (We called this the mothership connection) Aug 17, 2018
Ben Pontecorvo
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] This thing is fun and hard! P2 5.9?! Anywho thanks to the FA team- dope line up a proud wall Aug 18, 2018
[Hide Comment] Seems like a hold broke off the last pitch. Likely not 5.9 anymore but still fun!

Edit: After climbing the full route, this pitch is pretty on point. Jun 5, 2020