South West Couloir
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British Mod. Snow
Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6000 ft (1818 m) |
FA: | Ted Vaill, Stuart Kerns Aug 1962 |
Page Views: | 1,343 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Gee Dubble on Aug 13, 2018 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
The long, steep walled, upper coulior caps off a fish hook shaped route. Sometimes in springtime, this is the nicest, most chill, way up and down Mt Moran. The steep side walls and a SW exposure keep the sun off most of the route for awhile. Later, in sun or storm it can make a long, partially channelled avalanche.
The crux, exiting the top of the coulior, is a short but 5th class chockstone. 5.5, 8m.
The top of the route is classic unroped climbing shared by the northwest face, Triple Glaciers route.
The crux, exiting the top of the coulior, is a short but 5th class chockstone. 5.5, 8m.
The top of the route is classic unroped climbing shared by the northwest face, Triple Glaciers route.
Location
From Leigh Lake follow climber/game trail from campsite bear box at the inlet. Hike under South Face and Sandinista Coulior, better in gullies 200 m from wall, enter coulior, find flat white snow before mid May, climb to top of coulior, quick rope around crux, emerge on the North Face, climb and scramble to top.
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