Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: D.Mabe, Aug 2018
Page Views: 552 total · 42/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Aug 13, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A heroic bolted arete, shaped like a crooked dagger planted into the rubble on the right side of the Middle Ages. According to legend, Carnwennan was the name of King Arthur's dagger, with the magical power to shroud him in shadow. Good luck finding shade on this though, unless you know the magic to climbing on the North Side.

Begin with easy climbing to access the arete. Bring one or two cams for pro getting to first bolt. A sporty move after establishing onto the arete leads to enjoyable and exposed 5.10 climbing. The arete steepens to an off-balance crux with blind crimps and sloper-pinches. Mantle onto the low angle ramp, and cruise to the headwall. Finish with a nice sequence past two more bolts on bullet stone.

Location

Far right side of Middle Ages by roots of the fallen tree. The route starts 130ft down on decent broken ledge above a small pine tree. Single bolt anchor. Shares same P1 belay as Book of Wasp for reference.

Protection

A dozen bolts. A few longer draws and slings recommended.
Some gear options for the start and for getting to high first bolt in the headwall: #1,2,3 Metolius or similar. A #0.5C4 can be used to supplement the belay bolt.

Top anchor consists of single bolt and 1/2" RB hole.

Photos