Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Cory Hanson - August 2018
Page Views: 148 total · 37/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Aug 11, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access trail crosses a private ranch Details

Description

Who doesn't like a winner, or a chicken dinner for that matter?  

This route will throw all kinds of tricks your way.  Begin with moderate layback moves and high feet.  The laybacks give way to small pods and pockets just before the angle kicks back and holdable features become sparse.  Get funky with your knees and learn to love underclings if you have any hope of making it through the crux.  The climbing stays pumpy until the end, and one could surely blow it above the most difficult moves.  The end of this climb is a true cherry on top with some amazing mail slots and bullet stone on the grey arete.

If not for the fuzzy rock through the first few bolts of this climb I think this would get four stars.  The movement and holds are amazing.

It's finger lickin' good!

Location

Currently the rightmost route in The Coop.

Protection

8 bolts to chains w/ lower-offs.

Photos

cory hanson
  5.12d
cory hanson  
  5.12d
A nails hard move waits right at the start of some of the best movement in The Coop. The grade and quality of this climb are bound to be contentious due to the stand out difficulty and somewhat morphologically dependent crux. Don't shy away from the controversy though. The crux and the climbing above are very rewarding! Oct 27, 2018
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
wait... morphowhat ? Oct 27, 2018 · Temporary Report
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12c
John, not sure this is a new climbing term necessarily, but 'morpho' essentially refers to a move or sequence that completely deviates from proper body positioning. This climb has one such move where the best way to do it pretty much goes against movement rules and it takes some figuring out. It's low percentage, but not unpleasant. I've also heard 'morpho' referred to as 'body english'. Oct 27, 2018
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Luke... I was jokin. I assumed it meant "body metric" as in height, reach, flexibility, FINGER SIZE or the like. Oct 27, 2018 · Temporary Report