PRINT: Rock Climb Permit This, Golden

Permit This

5.10a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 26 votes
FA: Brian Parsons, Greg Hand, and Paul Heyliger
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Oz

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

This is on Upper Oz.

It looks like a very wide stem from below, but you never even try once you start. Everything shows up when you need it. This has a semi-powerful start, walk the ramp and climb the clever headwall inside the acute corner up to the chains.

Rap the route.

(I like the name, since we all felt like that when they announced the new route guidelines for the canyon.)

Location

This is the 2nd climb from the left after you step around the corner from pitch 1 of Finding Nemo/Finding Dory.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route with a few bolts marked.

Midway on the upper section.

The start of the route.

A rope on the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver

5.10a

There is a loose block between the second and third bolts. It is not a necessary hold but will likely come loose if pulled on. I put a chalk "X" on it. Sep 19, 2018