Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dean Giftos & Bill Lafontaine 1974
Page Views: 770 total · 20/month
Shared By: Reu Wilson on Aug 9, 2018 · Updates
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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First pitch is a dirty right facing open book. The pitch has gear where you need it, but by no means plentiful. The pitch finishes in a very cramped belay dike/ledge after some fun moves. The second pitch goes up to the obvious roof above, with no true rest.  The roof is then exited by traversing 15ft right on underclings and smears/small feet and then up to a pair of bolts in good condition and rap rings. BE WARNED, if the second blows it during the roof section there is no easy way of getting back on the wall as they will be left dangling in space with 80ft of clean air below them.  Also worth noting, the gear directly above to belay on pitch 2 is pg13/R for about ten feet and a slip here would be bad news. Additionaly if the leader goes for a ride during the roof section, with rope stretch and swing they could easily drop kick the belayer. For a bonus third pitch you can top out and wander back to the corkscrew rap station on your left, or stay roped up and make your way to the climbers left over some grassy ledges with no protection to the same station.


The start can be found 25 meters up hill from triumvirate, easiest to belay from a flat spot in the wash below the dihedral while the leader scrambles up a section of 5.3R to their first piece.
Decent can be made from the anchors shared with Godzilla (11c)


Assortment of nuts, cams from .3-3 doubles...0.75 helpful.   Double ropes to rappel (60m)