PRINT: Rock Climb Orange Wall | 6140, Portland & The Gorge

Orange Wall | 6140

5.10+, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3 from 15 votes
FA: Chuck Buzzard, John & Patrick Jackson, 9-88
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > Orange Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.

Description

A phenomenal line that was apparently put up as, essentially, a free-solo through the crux first half. Start up left of the arete until you quickly encounter the first bouldery crux. Step right on these cool, small features. Continue straight up on positive edges, through the blocky horizontals to a stance below the right-trending seam. Pull through this to the hold at the lip and proceed to figure out the mantel move. Continue from here up the dirty, chunky, but fun crack to the top of the pedestal.

Location

Just left of the obvious arete that delineates the right-most margin of "main" section of the Orange Wall.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 1.5" (nuts especially useful for upper half), anchor with lower-off rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

M Madness

Comfortizer

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Ball

5.10+

2 bolts added in lower half with permission of the FA, 8/19. Sep 2, 2019

C h a d

5.10d

This line seems to be more than the sum of its parts. Very fun.

Chad Oct 7, 2019

Nate Ball

5.10+

Now that the name of this route has been redacted, I am prompted to explain why I added this as is. Basically, I got in touch with Chuck Buzzard, discussed a number of things, and one of them was how this name came to be. It's a reference to a type of go-kart derby that is still around today. Aug 30, 2020

d sowerby

It used to have a fixed pin about 10ft up, in the horizontals. Above that, if you were smart, you placed a solid nut low in the "pod feature" before pulling the crux moves. So a little spicy, but not crazy bad. :-) Jun 11, 2021

Greg Lee

5.10d

Since the original name apparently isn't fit to be spoken or written, might I suggest "Spider Madness"? This thing was covered in webs today. The climbing through the bolts was decent, but the trad ending not so much. Aug 8, 2021

Nate Ball

5.10+

Yeah, some routes are going to be a little dirty after 6 months without traffic. Clean it and let us know it's ready to go. Thanks for putting in the effort for the rest of us!

MP has seen fit to redact all kinds of route names without explanation or standard. Many of them are objectively derogatory/biased, some of them aren't. Over a year in, folks on both sides are still waiting for guidance as to how we will proceed. Aug 8, 2021