Type: Trad, Alpine, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncrieff, 2016
Page Views: 90 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason Moncrieff on Aug 5, 2018
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! Details
Access Issue: Private property that is publicly accessible. Details

Description

Pitch 1 - Scramble left on the ramp to the base of the crack.  Friendly steep 5.8 climbing leads to stiff 5.10c roof move protected by steel nuts.  The crux can be bypassed on the right keeping the overall rating of the route to 5.10a.

Pitch 2 - easy 5.6 climbing leads to an exit move from the corner.

Pitch 3 - Hike the clean ramp up to a wide, low-angle dihedral protected by a bolt (5.10a).  A few thin cracks lead to a dramatic finish (5.9).  

Requires full rack to 3" including TCUs and steel nuts.  Rappel the route with a single 60m rope or scramble off the back side.

Protection

Traditional with one bolt plus bolted anchors.

Photos

Pablo Excalibur
Anchorage, AK
Pablo Excalibur   Anchorage, AK
Good route, will get better with more traffic, especially the chossy 2nd pitch. For me, the 1st and 3rd pitch were of equal difficulty, 10- or so. Aug 26, 2018