Mountain Project Logo

Dirtbag Direct

5.9+, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Russ Ricketts, Sean Woods, Viktor Kramer 2009
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Eight Mile Area > JY Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Climb cool slab moves with bolts for protection to a horizontal break between the 3rd & 4th bolt which takes a ~.5 inch cam well and makes the crux feel much safer.

This section of rock between the 3rd and 4th bolt is definitely the crux and may have crumbled a bit in the last few years. I climbed this in 2012 and it felt spot on for 5.9, I climbed it in the early summer of 2018 and it felt slightly tougher and again in July 2018 and I backed off because it felt super thin and sketchy. I'll admit it could have been the heat but It still seemed like holds were a bit smaller and harder to use. 


On the left part of the main wall in the shade of some maple trees. Right of Janetors of Justice. 


4 bolts and a .5 - 3/4 inch cam