Dirtbag Direct
5.9+,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
FA: Russ Ricketts, Sean Woods, Viktor Kramer 2009
Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Eight Mile Area
> JY Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Climb cool slab moves with bolts for protection to a horizontal break between the 3rd & 4th bolt which takes a ~.5 inch cam well and makes the crux feel much safer.
This section of rock between the 3rd and 4th bolt is definitely the crux and may have crumbled a bit in the last few years. I climbed this in 2012 and it felt spot on for 5.9, I climbed it in the early summer of 2018 and it felt slightly tougher and again in July 2018 and I backed off because it felt super thin and sketchy. I'll admit it could have been the heat but It still seemed like holds were a bit smaller and harder to use.
Location
On the left part of the main wall in the shade of some maple trees. Right of Janetors of Justice.
Protection
4 bolts and a .5 - 3/4 inch cam
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