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Routes in JY Crag
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Armed Forces Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barbie Mud Flaps T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirtbag Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Earthmover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Janetors of Justice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Frustrations T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ragweed T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Angles V8 7B |
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Six Digits in the Hole T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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good for nothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft |
| FA: | Russ Ricketts, Sean Woods, Viktor Kramer 2009 |
| Page Views: | 214 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Deliduka on Aug 5, 2018 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
In 2015 and 2016, there was a pair of golden eagles at Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
In 2015 and 2016, there was a pair of golden eagles at Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Climb cool slab moves with bolts for protection to a horizontal break between the 3rd & 4th bolt which takes a ~.5 inch cam well and makes the crux feel much safer.
This section of rock between the 3rd and 4th bolt is definitely the crux and may have crumbled a bit in the last few years. I climbed this in 2012 and it felt spot on for 5.9, I climbed it in the early summer of 2018 and it felt slightly tougher and again in July 2018 and I backed off because it felt super thin and sketchy. I'll admit it could have been the heat but It still seemed like holds were a bit smaller and harder to use.
This section of rock between the 3rd and 4th bolt is definitely the crux and may have crumbled a bit in the last few years. I climbed this in 2012 and it felt spot on for 5.9, I climbed it in the early summer of 2018 and it felt slightly tougher and again in July 2018 and I backed off because it felt super thin and sketchy. I'll admit it could have been the heat but It still seemed like holds were a bit smaller and harder to use.
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