Direct East Face

This route follows the line of the original East Face (III 5.8 Burt Turney & Chuck Ray 05/1968) to the large ledge system that splits the upper part of the wall. A long traverse left leads to an incredible crack that bisects the upper wall. The summit block @ 5.7X is surely one of the most exciting in the Sierra. Pitches 1 - 4 follow the prominent right-diagonaling crack system. We stepped out right onto excellent face holds on occasion to avoid brushy sections of crack. All belays were at large, comfy stances on the original route.

P1 5.8 150', P2 5.8 175', P3 5.7 175', P4 5.6 (loose and brushy) 150'.
At this point you have reached the giant sandy ledge system that runs across the width of the wall. The original route continues up and right into the notch, and around to the north side for a few hundred feet of 4th class to the summit block.

For the Direct, move the belay ~150' left across the ledge towards the 2 fir trees and the nice crack that diagonals up and right across the headwall.

P5) Up the mostly fingers-to-hands crack, passing through some small roofs and flakes, and a final short offwidth crux to a sloping alcove-like belay stance. Excellent 5.9+ 125'
P6) Right above the belay is a short section filled with a bush and mud where the FA party resorted to aid to bypass it. I was able to just rip enough bush and mud out on lead to freeclimb through. Leader should carry a nut tool (or tiny garden trowel). Follow the crack up to the skyline.  5.10 125'
P7) From here, cross a low-angle slab and climb up a left-leaning corner system (5.5ish, we soloed) to the summit pinnacle. Climb the exposed & slippery 50 foot summit block on its north side, bearhugging the 2-to-3 foot wide arete. 5.7X. Two old bolts on top to rappel.

Another creative party I know managed to rig a toprope on the summit by throwing a rope over the pinnacle from the adjacent western block. An impressive toss, for sure.

Descend via the North Ridge (cl.3) towards Kearsage Pass. At a notch in the ridge, we dropped down to Big Pothole Lake and popped up through a low saddle to regain the trail.

Doubles to 3", single 4". The 5.9+ OW crux could be protected with a #5 if you were so inclined, but its only about 6 feet long.