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> (b) Toxic - Tang Area
Never Have I Ever Used A Stepstool
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 65
votes
Routes in (b) Toxic - Tang Area
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Even Steven T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Even Steven 5.8 Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geek Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Journey to the Other Side of the Bridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Never Have I Ever Used A Stepstool T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roadside Floral Curtain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slapshot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stinkbug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tang T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TrainTruck T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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View from the Bridge, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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ZAP! Right between the Eyes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Nate Redon, James Maltman |
| Page Views: | 2,886 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Redon on Aug 4, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This route is loaded with fun mantles that make the movement interesting for the grade. The line wanders but the drag isn't too bad as long as you don't keep gear in the crack by the 3rd bolt or use really short draws. A 5.10 climber can probably do this with just draws, all hard moves are bolt protected.
Begin up a mellow corner and establish yourself on the first of many ledges. Pull a tricky mantle to access the next ledge and traverse to the right. Bring your stepstool or find a way of reaching a protruding horn and pull another fun move onto the next tier. A bolt was added because the gear is behind a hollow flake.
Step left and head up a techy dihedral with good edges up high (5.9). Make a final mantle and head up to the 'Geek Corners' anchor on easier terrain.
Begin up a mellow corner and establish yourself on the first of many ledges. Pull a tricky mantle to access the next ledge and traverse to the right. Bring your stepstool or find a way of reaching a protruding horn and pull another fun move onto the next tier. A bolt was added because the gear is behind a hollow flake.
Step left and head up a techy dihedral with good edges up high (5.9). Make a final mantle and head up to the 'Geek Corners' anchor on easier terrain.
Location
Starts in the low angle corner with a bolt 30 feet to the right of Geek Corners / Even Steven. The route wanders its way up the 4 ledges.
Protection
5 bolts to anchor with rings, consider alpine draws or something like a DMM Revolver. If not super comfortable at the grade: Bring a single rack with emphasis on smaller things, include a #3 to protect your follower getting onto the 3rd ledge (see horizontal crack at back of ledge). Also consider removing the 3rd draw after getting onto said ledge if you're worried about the drag.
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