Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Siegrist and Jennifer Vondungen, July 25, 2018
Page Views: 550 total · 81/month
Shared By: Bob Siegrist on Aug 3, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route begins with Wizard's Path and continues on for three more long pitches to the top of the Lower Great Face on Twin Sisters Peaks near Estes Park, Colorado. The four pitches are on solid rock with consistent face, overlap and roof climbing, and comfortable belay stances with spectacular views. The four pitches include:

Pitch 1. Wizard’s Path, 5.11-, 90 feet, 9 bolts + anchors. Pitch 1 involves technical face climbing that ends at a new 2-bolt anchor with chains that is to the right of the anchors for Wizard’s Path. (Note: an alternate pitch 1 is Take Me to Your Leader, 5.11+. Traverse up and left to the belay anchors from the last bolt on Take Me to Your Leader).

Pitch 2. 5.10, 115 feet, 16 bolts + anchors. Pitch 2 turns the overlap/roof straight above the belay and then climbs the featured face above with several overlaps and bulges before finishing on face climbing and ending on top of a flake where there is a comfortable stance and a 2-bolt anchor with chains. (Note: about 15 feet above the original anchors for Wizard’s Path, you will climb past a new rap station installed for the descent of The Arrival with a 60m rope.)

Pitch 3. 5.11-, 100 feet, 12 bolts + anchors. Pitch 3 begins with technical face climbing that leads to an intimidating roof sequence and finishes with face climbing that ends at a terraced ledge where there is a comfortable stance and a 2-bolt anchor with chains.

Pitch 4. 5.10, 95 feet, 10 bolts + anchors. Pitch 4 starts out with fun face climbing on featured rock leading to another intimidating roof that is turned at its center following the bolt line and then finishes with face and arête climbing that ends near the top of the cliff where there is a comfortable belay stance with a 2 bolt anchor with chains. (Note: the top anchors for The Arrival are to the climber’s right of the top anchors for The White Raven.)

Note: this is a new alpine sport route. It has been cleaned, and loose stones and rocks have been removed. However, as with any new route, during the early ascents, please be careful and mindful of what you grab and step on. Thanks!

Descent:

1. Walk off in 25 minutes. From the top anchors, scramble 30 feet or so to the top where there is a nice broad area to relax in. Note: there is a single bolt about 10 feet above the top anchors for The Arrival that was placed to aid the route development but can be used if desired to protect the scrambling above the top anchors. From the top of the route, walk to the north along the ridge crest for 2 to 3 minutes passing 4 small trees, a vertical stick set in stones, and a survey pipe. Reach a broad area where an obvious, sharp right turn traverses down to the talus via an obvious and easy scrambling path. Continue on down the left side of the talus and around Castaway Crag. Then hike up along the base of the Lower Great Face and back to the base of Wizard's Gate.

2. Rap the route. With a 60m rope, there are 4 raps to the ground via 2-bolt anchors with chains:

Rap 1 – 90 feet from the top anchor (2 bolts with chains) to the belay at the top of pitch 3 that has 2 bolts with chains.
Rap 2 – 95 feet to the belay at the top of pitch 2 that has 2 bolts with chains.
Rap 3 – 95 feet to the rap station that has 2 bolts with chains and is located about 20 feet above the belay for pitch 1.
Rap 4 – 90 feet to the ground.

With a 70m rope, there are also 4 raps to the ground but you can go from belay to belay and not use the rap station above the belay for pitch 1.

Location

The route is located near the center of the Wizard's Gate, a climbing zone on Twin Sisters Peaks near Estes Park, Colorado. The route begins with the established route, Wizard’s Path, which is located in the right center of the main face area at the Wizard's Gate.

Protection

The entire route is sport and protected with bolts and two-bolt anchors.

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
Fun route, closely bolted. Upper three pitches are quite a bit easier than the first. Aug 9, 2018
Jonathan Field
Tulsa, OK
 
Jonathan Field   Tulsa, OK
 
There were a couple loose blocks on the 3rd pitch to avoid. It should improve with additional traffic to clean up the holds. Sep 6, 2018