[Hide Comment] The top half of this route was originally a pin-protected variation to Route Crafters that ended at a tree, which was called Chop the Monkey. When we cleaned it, we only found two pins, one of which came right out. We then top-roped the bottom half and found a distinct, fun line. The route is still cleaning up but should be a fun addition to the area as long as it sees some traffic.

The name is a reference to the original route, as orangutans are hunted for bush meat. Also, it's the Orange Wall, orangutans are orange, so is tang, and the crux requires some monkey business. ;-)

news.nationalgeographic.com… Aug 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] If you place the optional cam down low, it will be facing slightly upwards, loaded over a sharp edge, and behind an entirely? detached block. This is why I didn't put a bolt here - it's big enough to stay in place as long as bodies aren't weighting it or cams levering it outward. Stick clipping the first bolt would be a better idea, but it's 5.7 climbing on huge jugs to that point anyway. Aug 10, 2019

[Hide Comment] Nate it's a really good route. I'll check those blocks more carefully next time, maybe they really are detached, in which case, would you consider a bolt? (Can't believe I'm saying that, but if that block pulled under a load it could easily kill both climber and belayer.) But if they're not detached, in my humble opinion a patient leader can easily find solid safe placements. It's a totally safe route as is as long as those initial blocks are solid. I never touched those Xed flakes and the route will only improve if they disappear. Bring on the hammer. Aug 13, 2019

[Hide Comment] I skipped the placement on the FA, but shoved one in the last time I led it just to see what people were talking about. There isn't really anywhere to put a bolt that isn't too close to either Route Crafters or Graduation, or in one of those detached blocks. If you say there are good placements on the side then I believe you and will highlight that in the route description.

That X'd chunk wasn't like that on the FA. It's become an eyesore more than anything else and I will remove it soon. Aug 13, 2019

[Hide Comment] Nate it's possible I failed to check the blocks well enough to be sure they were solid. I'll get back there and check it out eventually. But feel free to beat me there. I'm sure that it's no big deal to skip the pro the second time you climb the route, but most onsighters will see the obvious cracks and a bolt 20-25 feet up and will place the gear. (And I hear you on not placing squeeze job or uselessly located bolts) Aug 14, 2019

[Hide Comment] Today, I removed what I deemed to be any dubious rock, which was mostly around Bolt 2. I yarded on the X'd flakes near Bolt 1 from the side and they didn't move. They are loose and rattle if kicked or pulled from above, but I don't believe they will come off from climbing use any time soon, nor are they even necessary. In my opinion, not every loose chunk of rock should be treated like an imminent hazard. Madrone is pretty much a stack of various-sized tetris-blocks held in place by their own weight.

I also looked for solid rock to squeeze a lower first bolt into that isn't too close to Graduation. I determined there MIGHT be, but it's a bit of a reach to the right. If folks feel like it's necessary then I'll put it in.

This route will need more post-closure cleaning than others due to the debris chute at the top. Dec 26, 2019

[Hide Comment] Historical note: The name "Chop the monkey" comes from the FA team who took umbrage at Gary Rall's manufactured route "Plastic Monkey" at Carver and removed its bolts. They then climbed CTM and subtly named it. Portland Climbing Trivia #74 Apr 29, 2021

[Hide Comment] Reclimbed this the other day and have come to agree with Nate that the big flake down low may not be the best place to put a cam. First bolt is high, but can be stick clipped fairly easily with an actual telescoping pole of some sort.

There is currently a BD UL#2 buried in the big flake. My partner worked to try and get it out for a few minutes, but some of the sounds that rock made while wrenching on the cam were not very friendly sounding, and combined with the state of the cam he abandoned the effort.

Overall the route has cleaned up pretty nicely and is a real fun little climb, though. Oct 16, 2022

[Hide Comment] Hanger on third bolt is spinning and bolt itself moves as well Aug 24, 2026