Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 143 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tiffany Samson on Aug 2, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

The Mt. Erie book says the route shares the first 4 bolts with the 5.10a Lightning Waltz, but it has its own bolt line now. 5.10 climbing at the bottom until the slab under the mini 1-foot roof. Tiny crimpers on slab seems harder than what the book says is the crux which is up higher. Balancey. Compression then gaston at roof to bomber hold up left. A sequence of moves for the crux involving power. The rock has a lot of friction for feet. Sidepull with a magic hand crimp out left. Deserves more than the 1* given in the book.

Location

Middle of wall. Left of Lightning Waltz.

Protection

bolts and chain anchor. Anchor is rusted and is shared with the 5.10a Lightning Waltz.

Photos

Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
Those who added the direct new bolt line renamed the route "Beard on Fire", which has already been added, so this is a duplicate entry FYI. It also has it's own set of anchors several feet to the left of the ones for Lightning Waltz, and they're brand new bolts with steel chains and biners.

As for the grade, I've repeated the route a few times and have come to the conclusion it's a lot closer to 11b than 12a, even in comparison to many other Erie pitches. Not in the same realm as When the Cat's Away, easier than Karnage, easier than many of the 11c-ish pitches on Snag Buttress, etc. Not trying to detract from the route though - there's a reason I've done it multiple times, the movement is fun! But somewhere around 11b/c might be a fair compromise. Oct 9, 2018
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
as far as I know, BBLW is just the more difficult finish of lightning waltz. Beard on Fire is what the route is called now, as it has it's own (more direct) bolt line and a few of the old bolts that made the variation have been removed. Oct 10, 2018
So, unfortunately, even Dallas Kloke messed up the route info regarding "Bomb Blast Lighting Waltz" I put it up back in the 80"s. Also the 2nd edition of his guide book is still incorrect. I led the route as direct as possible. I and my partner Stu Ford, put it up up on a very cold day. I intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. I then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt I drilled by hand, only after reaching the the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu took me off belay and I finished the route. Oct 29, 2018
Sorry, Stu put me back on belay and I finished the route. Oct 29, 2018