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Routes in Lookout Wall

Beane's Blast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beard on Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cat With No Tail S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lightning Waltz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertigo T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 26 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tiffany Samson on Aug 2, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

The Mt. Erie book says the route shares the first 4 bolts with the 5.10a Lightning Waltz, but it has its own bolt line now. 5.10 climbing at the bottom until the slab under the mini 1-foot roof. Tiny crimpers on slab seems harder than what the book says is the crux which is up higher. Balancey. Compression then gaston at roof to bomber hold up left. A sequence of moves for the crux involving power. The rock has a lot of friction for feet. Sidepull with a magic hand crimp out left. Deserves more than the 1* given in the book.

Location

Middle of wall. Left of Lightning Waltz.

Protection

bolts and chain anchor. Anchor is rusted and is shared with the 5.10a Lightning Waltz.

Photos

Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.12a
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.12a
Much more fun then I expected! I thought the trickiest parts were hanging onto the crimpers to get to the roof (lots of tension on finger tendons) and going from the roof to the bomber hold up left. I think I ditched the crossover method and used an intermediate hold to get to that bomber one. I cut feet when I hit the bomber hold and pulled up. The next part which the book says is the crux, seemed easier to me. I was confused about how to place my feet for the sidepull hold since there is nothing out right, then found a nice left hand crimp and worked feet up with slightly splayed knees. Not sure if the rating is on the mark b/c I’ve never climbed 11c-12a before. Sweet first outdoor 5.12! Aug 2, 2018

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