PRINT: Rock Climb Ranger Smith, Southwest Region

Ranger Smith

5.9, Sport, 135 ft (41 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.8 from 20 votes
FA: Craig Zaspel & Ron Brunckhorst (Aug. 2000)
Montana > Southwest Region > Bear Canyon > Upper Bear Canyon > Yogi Bear Spire

Description

A surprisingly great route! However, this route has likely seen little traffic over years, so wear a helmet, and tread lightly. Think of this route as a slight adventure route, and check holds before you yank on them.

Pitch 1: (5.9, 75') Climb up a short, bolted slab to a steep, juggy pocketed light brown face. Angle a bit left and then end in a cozy notch.

Pitch 2: (5.7, 60') Angle up and slightly right from the notch, following bolts. Head right around a good undercling bulge, and finish on chains on the north face. Super airy, exposed, and fun!

Descent: If you have a 70m rope, one long 35m rappel will dump you out on easy slab with about 10' of down "climbing". Otherwise rappel down to P1 chains and then do a 2nd rappel.

Location

When looking up at Yogi, this route ascends the adjacent spire to your left.

Protection

Bolts to chains. Bring 14-15 draws (2-3 extendibles) if you want to run it in one long pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ranger Smith

70m rope after rap from top anchors. 70m works with nothing to spare.

Ranger Smith climbs the tower on the left

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Lind
Bozeman, MT

Wicked pockets, a sweet belay station, with a perfectly airy ending. This well bolted route is great for anyone looking to learn and lead their first multi pitch. Sep 22, 2018

Colin Quinn
Las Vegas

I would say this is a terrible route for someone learning multipitch. I broke off what felt like every other foot hold, raining down pebbles on my belayer. Tread VERY lightly. Ripped off a plate size flake which did not sound hollow and was barely weighted. Helmets mandatory for this route, or better yet, skip it. 5 stars. Nov 20, 2018

Todd Schlotfeldt
Bozeman, MT

A 69m gets you down to about 10 feet from the ground. From there it's an easy down climb. A bit chossy but worth checking it out! Jul 13, 2020

Luke J

As of 9/24/22 rock quality was good enough for us. Helmet mandatory, but we didn't encounter any large pieces of choss. Wouldn't climb this without 70m rope, as the first belay station would be hard to return to from the top, and 70m barely gets you right to the ground. Sep 24, 2022

Daniel Guillien

4/22/23 This is an easy climb on questionable rock. We didn't break any holds, however treaded very carefully. All bolts felt solid and tight. First pitch is very well protected and provides straightforward moves and uninspiring movement. second pitch is a fun lead with an airy move over a small roof. Our 70M reached the ground in a single rappel.

I would have to disagree with the other comment and would recommend this as a learner multi-pitch. great ledge at the first belay and super easy climbing. Just don't pull on anything too hard! 1 day ago