Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Equipped by L.P. & P.P.
Page Views: 1,071 total · 56/month
Shared By: Paul Peppin on Jul 31, 2018 with improvements by Liz Peppin
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

You & This Route


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Description

First route on the face right of the Rainbow Roof. Starts just right of a blunt arete. This one is a classic!

First pitch (5.10d): A 5.9 start gives way to gradually more difficult but super fun climbing, with a thought-provoking, but well-protected high crux. Hidden holds, right where you need them. 75 feet, 8 + anchors.

Second pitch (5.10c): Head left from first set of anchors into a crack system. Climb slabby crack to large blocks, then up onto a sizeable ledge under a roof. Move left to exit the roof, straddling precariously on a sharp arete, then trend rightward up a slab to anchors below a large oak tree. Easy to top out and walk off.  70 feet, 7 + anchors.  

Both pitches can be linked, but be prepared for a little rope drag at the end. TWO RAPPELS ARE NECESSARY - KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES!.  If there's a lot of traffic on the route its polite to rap from the top anchors down to the extension pitch anchors(second set) of Butt Monkeys, its actualy a better repel option to begin with in my opinion.  The anchors are 25' climbers left of Beyond Hell, Above Heaven's first pitch anchors.

Protection

Completely bolted, but the top pitch can be a fun trad lead.

Photos