Avg: 3.9 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Equipped by L.P. & P.P.|
|Page Views:||1,071 total · 56/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Peppin on Jul 31, 2018|
|Admins:||jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin|
First pitch (5.10d): A 5.9 start gives way to gradually more difficult but super fun climbing, with a thought-provoking, but well-protected high crux. Hidden holds, right where you need them. 75 feet, 8 + anchors.
Second pitch (5.10c): Head left from first set of anchors into a crack system. Climb slabby crack to large blocks, then up onto a sizeable ledge under a roof. Move left to exit the roof, straddling precariously on a sharp arete, then trend rightward up a slab to anchors below a large oak tree. Easy to top out and walk off. 70 feet, 7 + anchors.
Both pitches can be linked, but be prepared for a little rope drag at the end. TWO RAPPELS ARE NECESSARY - KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES!. If there's a lot of traffic on the route its polite to rap from the top anchors down to the extension pitch anchors(second set) of Butt Monkeys, its actualy a better repel option to begin with in my opinion. The anchors are 25' climbers left of Beyond Hell, Above Heaven's first pitch anchors.