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27. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 26
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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1. That Shitty Mossy Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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10. Carpe Dildo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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11. Between A Block And A Hard Place S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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12. Dripping With Cooties S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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13. More Cowbell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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14. Indecent Exposure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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15. God Bless Stretchy Pants S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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16. Silver Sweetness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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17. Best Seat In The House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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18a. Silver Gold S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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18b. Silver Sickness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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19. Revenge Of The Barking Spiders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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2. High Gravity Day S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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20. 1.21 Gigawatts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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21. Pepsi Showers S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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22. Crack Debit Or Credit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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23. Welcome to the 906 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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24. Sloth-Like Reflexes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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25a. Golden Heart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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25b. Golden Heart Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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25c. Golden Heart Bypass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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26a. Anal Dwelling Butt Monkeys (ADBM) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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26b. "ADBM" Extension, Left (Direct) Variation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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26c "ADBM" Extension, Right Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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26d. "ADBM" Upper Pitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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27. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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28a. Intergalactic STDs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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28b. Intergalatic STDs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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28c. Intergalatic STDs S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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29. Alpha Nerd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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3. Ten Meters of Teamwork S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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30. Sexus (aka The Diagonal Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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31. Footloose (aka The Sport Route) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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32a. Queen Bee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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32b. Queen Bee Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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33. Swamp Thing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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34. Love Street S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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36. Matrix (aka Buck Angel Crack) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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37. Don't Panic, and Bring Your Towel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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38. Wine Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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39. Ivy's Poison T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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4. Yo Momma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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40. Big Laughing Gym T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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5. Yo Momma's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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6. Yo Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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7. Super Mario's Magic Mushroom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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8. Geriatric Death Metal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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9. Rainbow Catwalk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ariel map of route locations TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Mosquito Bait V4 6B |
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Sneaking Past the Guard V5 6C |
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| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Equipped by L.P. & P.P. |
| Page Views: | 2,057 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | P P on Jul 31, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | J J, P P, John Miller |
Your Star Rating:
Description
First route on the face right of the Rainbow Roof. Starts just right of a blunt arete. This one is a classic!
First pitch (5.10d): A 5.9 start gives way to gradually more difficult but super fun climbing, with a thought-provoking, but well-protected high crux. Hidden holds, right where you need them. 75 feet, 8 + anchors.
Second pitch (5.10c): Head left from first set of anchors into a crack system. Climb slabby crack to large blocks, then up onto a sizeable ledge under a roof. Move left to exit the roof, straddling precariously on a sharp arete, then trend rightward up a slab to anchors below a large oak tree. Easy to top out and walk off. 70 feet, 7 + anchors.
Both pitches can be linked, but be prepared for a little rope drag at the end. TWO RAPPELS ARE NECESSARY - KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES!. If there's a lot of traffic on the route its polite to rap from the top anchors down to the extension pitch anchors(second set) of Butt Monkeys, its actualy a better repel option to begin with in my opinion. The anchors are 25' climbers left of Beyond Hell, Above Heaven's first pitch anchors.
First pitch (5.10d): A 5.9 start gives way to gradually more difficult but super fun climbing, with a thought-provoking, but well-protected high crux. Hidden holds, right where you need them. 75 feet, 8 + anchors.
Second pitch (5.10c): Head left from first set of anchors into a crack system. Climb slabby crack to large blocks, then up onto a sizeable ledge under a roof. Move left to exit the roof, straddling precariously on a sharp arete, then trend rightward up a slab to anchors below a large oak tree. Easy to top out and walk off. 70 feet, 7 + anchors.
Both pitches can be linked, but be prepared for a little rope drag at the end. TWO RAPPELS ARE NECESSARY - KNOT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES!. If there's a lot of traffic on the route its polite to rap from the top anchors down to the extension pitch anchors(second set) of Butt Monkeys, its actualy a better repel option to begin with in my opinion. The anchors are 25' climbers left of Beyond Hell, Above Heaven's first pitch anchors.
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