Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Equipped by L.P. & P.P.
Page Views: 171 total · 38/month
Shared By: Paul Peppin on Jul 31, 2018 with updates from Liz Peppin
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin

You & This Route


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Description

First route on the face right of the Rainbow Roof.

First pitch 5.10c: A 5.9 start gives way to gradually more difficult but fun climbing, with thought-provoking, well-protected high cruxes. Hidden holds, right were you need them. 75 feet, 8 + anchors.

Second pitch 5.10b: Head left from first set of anchors into a crack system. Climb slabby crack to large blocks, then up onto a ledge under a roof. Move left to exit the roof, straddling precariously on a sharp arete, then trend rightward up a slab to anchors below a large oak tree. Easy to top out and walk off.  70 feet, 7 + anchors.  

Both pitches can be linked, but be prepared for rope drag.

Protection

Bolted, but top pitch goes trad.

Photos

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jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
  5.10b
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
  5.10b
I thought both pitches were about the same grade, 10b, although a different style of climbing at each crux. But, that could be the Devil's Lake climber in me. Aug 16, 2018