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Trad, Aid, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 2
FA: Eli Boardman and Max Manson 7-27-18
> Wind River Range
> Far Northern Winds
> Whiskey Mountain
> Chocolate Factory
Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land
Torrey Valley is known for ancient petroglyphs found on sandstone blocks, usually facing one of the lakes. It goes without saying, don't climb on or directly next to the petroglyphs, and don't harm them in any way.
The approach road (County Road 411/Trail Lake Road) runs through private land on an easement from the Whiskey Basin wildlife reserve to the public campground at the head of Ring Lake. It is illegal to leave the road without permission from the landowners in this area except for the boat ramp at Torrey Lake provided on a goodwill basis. The east side of the valley has a lot of private land, too. There is not much worth climbing in the private part anyway.
I believe this climb is legitimately classic due to the great position, quality rock, interesting and varied moves, and distinctly different flavors of the two pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.8) Locate an offwidth crack going up inside the west edge of the obvious arch on the south face of the rocks. Start by climbing up onto a small ledge to the right of the crack, then use a combination of offwidth jamming and stemming to climb up inside the arch. Continue through chimneys above the offwidth and gain a big ledge. Continue to tunnel up and right through caverns inside the rock until you reach a large sloping platform with walls on two sides and a dramatic roof. Belay here.
Pitch 2 (C2) Climb or aid up to the horizontal crack below the nearly horizontal 15-foot roof. Tension traverse out below the roof to place the biggest cam you have (at least a #4). Aid out the ever-narrowing crack in the roof. There is a fixed ballnut from my FA at the corner where the roof turns up. A few tenuous placements with moderate decking potential above the ledge lead around the corner of the roof to the belay. My partner thought this pitch was reminiscent of the classic climbs "Separate Realities" and "Trench Warfare;" it might go free at 5.hard. After topping out, eat some chocolate and soak in the splendor of the views.
Find Whiskey Mountain Pinnacle (obvious from the meadow at the end of the trail) and walk west to the next rocks. Get on the south side and look for a 30-foot-tall arch.
Cams .3-4 with doubles .5-3 A few micro cams RPs or micro nuts Ballnuts (optional, recommended)