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Willy Wonka

5.8 C2, Trad, Aid, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Eli Boardman and Max Manson 7-27-18
Wyoming > Wind River Range > Far Northern Winds > Whiskey Mountain > Chocolate Factory
Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land Details

Description

I believe this climb is legitimately classic due to the great position, quality rock, interesting and varied moves, and distinctly different flavors of the two pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.8)
Locate an offwidth crack going up inside the west edge of the obvious arch on the south face of the rocks. Start by climbing up onto a small ledge to the right of the crack, then use a combination of offwidth jamming and stemming to climb up inside the arch. Continue  through chimneys above the offwidth and gain a big ledge. Continue to tunnel up and right through caverns inside the rock until you reach a large sloping platform with walls on two sides and a dramatic roof. Belay here.

Pitch 2 (C2)
Climb or aid up to the horizontal crack below the nearly horizontal 15-foot roof. Tension traverse out below the roof to place the biggest cam you have (at least a #4). Aid out the ever-narrowing crack in the roof. There is a fixed ballnut from my FA at the corner where the roof turns up. A few tenuous placements with moderate decking potential above the ledge lead around the corner of the roof to the belay. My partner thought this pitch was reminiscent of the classic climbs "Separate Realities" and "Trench Warfare;" it might go free at 5.hard. After topping out, eat some chocolate and soak in the splendor of the views.

Location

​​​​​​​​Find Whiskey Mountain Pinnacle (obvious from the meadow at the end of the trail) and walk west to the next rocks. Get on the south side and look for a 30-foot-tall arch.

Protection

Cams .3-4 with doubles .5-3
A few micro cams
RPs or micro nuts
Ballnuts (optional, recommended)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First ascent of the 2nd pitch of Willy Wonka, aiding with Ross Lake in the background
[Hide Photo] First ascent of the 2nd pitch of Willy Wonka, aiding with Ross Lake in the background
Crux of the 2nd pitch
[Hide Photo] Crux of the 2nd pitch
East side of the Chocolate Factory, first pitch is yellow, second pitch is green
[Hide Photo] East side of the Chocolate Factory, first pitch is yellow, second pitch is green
Max following the very top of the route
[Hide Photo] Max following the very top of the route
Looking down the first pitch
[Hide Photo] Looking down the first pitch