Type: Boulder, 5 ft (2 m)
FA: someone
Page Views: 1,374 total · 20/month
Shared By: Matthew Briggs on Jul 27, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: West side of park complete closure information DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start matched on the left-most jug. Move right along the obvious jugs until you are below the final jug with a crack down the middle. Reach or dyno for that hold and pull over. Dealers choice for finishing, but for full credit, continue straight up after hitting the final jug instead of bailing left. The crack in the back is off until you hit the highest jug but can be useful is bailing to the left to finish. These holds aren't necessary, however. 

This is very height-dependent. Some will find this route very easy, being able to generate off of the larger footholds. Others will need to do a larger dyno or generate off of smaller, worse foot holds.

Dyno alternative - from matched on the start hold, dyno or static (if wingspan will allow) to the top, and mantel over.

Location Suggest change

Park in the second parking lot on the west end of the park, by the barn. Walk through Bluebird Meadow on Bluebird Meadow Trail towards the butte (Gilligan's Island) itself. Come around Gilligan's Island, and just about in the middle, go off trail toward the butte itself. Stick along the butte, slightly off trail until you find a small dirt path leading up. This is a fairly obvious and easy route up that requires no scramble. Almost tucked inward toward the butte is a fairly steep, medium-sized wall with the routes Castaway, Seven On The Beach, and now Beginner's Luck.

Protection Suggest change

Pads and a spotter are recommended.

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