Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA: D Lussier, V Hempsall, B Sawyer ’12. FFA: D Lussier, J Luthy ’14
Page Views: 320 total · 19/month
Shared By: Thor Stewart on Jul 27, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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P1:  (5.9 40m) Start from a ledge 10m right of the gully separating the 2 summits of Gimli above a short green colored wall. Climb up following the prow of a broad grey buttress.

P2: (5.10- 40m) Climb up and left past a small pine tree and the left side of a 5m high detached pillar. Continue up and left to a beautiful hand crack in a shallow, right-facing corner and eventually a small overhang near the top.

P3: (5.12a 45m) Climb the thin crack above passing a 2 fixed pitons. Continue up the steep wall following the thin crack past 5 bolts. Beautifully exposed.

P4: (5.10+ 25m) Climb up a right-facing corner with a small bolt-protected roof near the top. Harder than it looks.

P5: trad. Climb up and left through easier ground to the summit. Beaware of large loose blocks.


This climb is located on the shorter, south-facing wall that leads to the true Gimli summit. If you are looking at the prow of Gimli (the south ridge) it is the shorter wall back and to the right (east) where the descent route starts. Access: from the “beach” hike to the South Ridge route then traverse right (east) about 100m around the base. Scramble up a grassy (or snowy depending on the season) ramps towards the upper east-facing basin below Gimli peak. Ascend to the base of the East-facing couloir, seperating the upper south ridge and the main summit of Gimli.


Take a double rack to #2s. All stations are bolted and it is possible to rappel the route with 2 ropes.


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