Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2200 ft, Grade III
FA: Justin Willis, Damian Mast; March 2016
Page Views: 344 total · 21/month
Shared By: Justin Willis on Jul 25, 2018
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tribal Permit required! Details

Description

A Spring-time route worth the bushy approach.
Start early in the morning to prevent being caught in cornices falling off the summit ridge. Several pitches of steep nevé and WI3 lead to two pitches past a rockband where M4-5 and maybe a move of M6 is encountered. Move up and traverse left(East) when you can to get out from under the 40' cornices looming 800' above. Climb 700' straight up on more steep nevé, paying attention the the great air beneath your heels. Obtain the summit ridge and meander easily up to the summit.
On the FA, we were lucky enough to have a car at the Ashley Lakes TH to make our walk out much easier. We descended the West Ridge to the Ashley Lakes and hiked out the trail. If the extra car is not an option, descend the East Ridge to the saddle between Sheepshead and Macdonald Peak and walk out the way you approached the N. Face. 

Location

Park at Lake Macdonald and follow the trail about one mile past the lake and then head south, across the creek and up the unnamed drainage that leads to the base of the North Face.
Beware: the approach is rather heinous thanks to rather intense bush-whacking. It sucks while you're in it, but have no worries as the climb is so good that by the first swing, you won't even remember all the cussing you did on the approach.
Expect 2-4 hours to get to the base of the wall, just three miles from the trailhead.

Protection

Whatever you can find.

Photos

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